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Maytag Refrigerator Running Constantly - Causes & Fix

3 min read

Independent. We don't sell parts, so we tell you when not to buy one.

⚡ Quick Answer

Dirty condenser coils are the most common cause. Unplug the unit, clean the coils with a brush or vacuum, and restore power.

Difficulty Intermediate (DIY)
Est. time 15-60 min
Tools Multimeter , nut driver, screwdrivers

Maytag Refrigerator Running Constantly — What’s Happening

A Maytag refrigerator that runs constantly means the compressor and fans are not cycling off normally. The unit is calling for cooling because it cannot reach the thermostat’s target temperature, or the control system is falsely sensing a warm condition and keeping the compressor energized. This is a symptom, not a fault code, and it points to airflow restrictions, temperature-sensing problems, defrost failures, door seal leaks, or control issues.

Maytag’s own troubleshooting starts with airflow, leveling, seals, and power resets rather than treating constant run as a dedicated error. The compressor stays on because either the cabinet temperature is genuinely above setpoint or a sensor or control is misreading the temperature and holding the compressor on when it should cycle off.

Jump to Fix

Most Likely Causes

How to Diagnose and Fix

  1. Verify the symptom by confirming the compressor and fans do not cycle off after several hours, ruling out normal extended run from heavy load, hot ambient temperature, or frequent door openings.
  2. Check the temperature settings and perform a power reset by unplugging the unit for 5 to 10 minutes, then restore power and monitor for normal cycling.
  3. Inspect airflow inside the cabinet by removing any items blocking vents and ensuring the refrigerator is not overfilled.
  4. Check door sealing by inspecting the gasket for tears or gaps, verifying door alignment, and confirming the unit is level so doors close and seal properly.
  5. Clean the condenser coils by disconnecting power, removing the base grille or access panel, and using a brush or vacuum to remove dust and debris from the coils and surrounding area.
  6. Check condenser fan operation by inspecting for obstructions with power removed, then restoring power and verifying the fan runs when the compressor runs.
  7. Inspect the evaporator section by removing the freezer rear panel and checking for excessive frost or ice buildup that would indicate a defrost or airflow problem.
  8. Test the defrost system if the evaporator is iced over by evaluating the defrost heater, defrost thermostat or bi-metal, and defrost control or timer depending on the model, and test temperature-sensing components if the compressor runs continuously despite normal cabinet temperature.

Parts You Might Need

PartNotes
Condenser coil brush or vacuum attachmentAmazon | For cleaning dust and debris from condenser coils.
Door gasket (model-specific)Amazon | Replace if torn, worn, or not sealing properly.
Condenser fan motorAmazon | Required if the condenser fan does not run or is noisy.
Defrost heater or thermostatAmazon | Needed if evaporator is iced and defrost system has failed.

If your appliance also shows a code on the display, these match this problem:

When to Call a Pro

Call a professional if the unit still runs constantly after cleaning coils, verifying airflow, and checking door seals. Defrost-system repairs, sealed-system diagnosis, and control-board or thermistor replacement require refrigeration tools and model-specific service data. If the compressor runs nonstop but the cabinet will not reach temperature, the problem is likely in the refrigeration system or control circuitry and requires a qualified technician with recovery equipment and diagnostic instruments.


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