Can I keep running the equipment with this fault active?

Generally no. Faults on Appliance units are emitted when a sensor, safety, or control circuit is outside its operating envelope. Running through an active fault risks compressor, heater, or control-board damage. Diagnose and clear the fault first.

What part is most commonly replaced for Frigidaire Oven Burner Control Switch Replacement - Signs & How-To?

The most frequently replaced parts for Frigidaire Oven Burner Control Switch Replacement - Signs & How-To are listed in the Parts Reference section of this guide with OEM part numbers and typical price ranges. Check the table for direct replacements.

Is Frigidaire Oven Burner Control Switch Replacement - Signs & How-To a DIY repair or do I need a technician?

Sensor swaps, fan motor replacements, and condenser cleaning are typical DIY-level repairs. Anything involving refrigerant, gas, or high-voltage (>240V) work requires a licensed technician for both safety and code-compliance reasons.

Frigidaire Oven Burner Control Switch Replacement - Signs & How-To

Q: What does Frigidaire Oven Burner Control Switch Replacement - Signs & How-To mean?

Burner won't heat, heats intermittently, or won't adjust across settings? The infinite switch cycles power to your radiant element. Replacing it restores normal burner operation.

Q: How do I fix Frigidaire Oven Burner Control Switch Replacement - Signs & How-To?

Follow the step-by-step diagnosis below. The most likely fix is identified by checking power, sensor resistance, and control-board signals in order — using a multimeter and the part numbers documented in the parts reference table.

Frigidaire Oven Burner Control Switch Replacement — What This Part Does

The surface element infinite switch is the burner control switch mounted behind the front panel knob. When you turn the knob, the switch meters power to the radiant element in pulses to regulate heat output. Over time the internal contacts wear out or burn from the high current cycling through them, and the switch stops delivering power correctly.

Failed switches are the most common cause of burner-control issues once you’ve ruled out a bad element itself. Loose, burnt, or miswired terminals at the switch can also mimic switch failure, especially if someone has worked on the range before. On dual or expandable burners, the switch can fail in one mode but still work in another, so the burner may heat on the small setting but not the large.

Jump to Replacement Steps

Signs It Needs Replacing

Burner does not heat at all You turn the knob and the element stays cold, which means the switch is not closing the power circuit to the element.
Burner heats intermittently The element glows on and off randomly or quits heating mid-cycle, pointing to a switch with failing contacts.
Burner won’t adjust across settings The element stays on high no matter where you set the knob, or it won’t reach high heat, showing the switch is stuck or unable to cycle properly.
Dual burner works on one size only Your expandable burner heats on the small setting but not the large (or the reverse), which means part of the switch circuit has failed.
Knob feels loose or turns without resistance The knob spins freely or feels disconnected, often because the switch shaft is broken or the switch has pulled away from its mount.
Burnt smell or visible char at the switch You see melted plastic or blackened terminals when you remove the panel, confirming the switch has overheated and failed.

How to Replace It

Unplug the range or switch off the dedicated circuit breaker at your electrical panel to kill all power to the unit.
Pull the burner knob straight off the switch shaft, then remove the screws securing the upper back panel or control panel to access the switch mounting area.
Test the surface element first by swapping it with a working burner or checking it with a multimeter for continuity across the terminals. If the element is bad, replace the element instead of the switch.
Label every wire at the switch terminals with masking tape or take a clear photograph so you can transfer each wire to the exact same terminal on the new switch.
Use a multimeter to test the old switch for continuity between the terminals called out in your service manual or parts video. A switch that shows no continuity where it should is defective.
Remove the mounting screws holding the switch to the bracket, then pull the switch free and disconnect the wires one at a time.
Slide the furnished bushing onto the new switch shaft if your kit includes one, then transfer each wire to the matching terminal on the new switch in the same order.
Mount the new switch in the same orientation with the supplied screws, tighten the bracket, and reinstall the control panel or back panel.
Push the burner knob back onto the switch shaft, restore power at the breaker or plug, and test the burner across all heat settings to verify it cycles and adjusts normally.

The Part You Need

Part	Notes
Frigidaire surface element infinite switch	Amazon \| Check your model and serial plate (inside the oven door or on the frame) and cross-reference it at an OEM parts supplier. Documented Frigidaire part numbers include 316436000 and 1155395 for different models. Some kits ship with a bushing and mounting screws.

If this part is failing you may also see one of these codes:

When to Call a Pro

If you are not comfortable working inside a live electrical panel to shut off the breaker, or if you remove the control panel and find melted, burnt, or corroded wiring that extends beyond the switch terminals, call a qualified appliance technician. A pro should also diagnose the issue if swapping the element and replacing the switch both fail to restore heat, since the fault may lie in the range’s internal wiring harness or control board. Mismatched or incorrectly transferred wires can short the new switch the moment you restore power, so label every connection carefully or let a tech handle the swap. For gas line, burner, or igniter work, or if you ever smell gas, stop and call a licensed technician.