Can I keep using my Samsung appliance with this error showing?

Usually not. Samsung appliances show this error when a part or safety circuit is out of range, so running it can stop the cycle or make the problem worse. Diagnose and clear the error before normal use.

What part is most commonly replaced for Samsung Oven Surface Burner Element Replacement - Signs & How-To?

The parts that most often fix Samsung Oven Surface Burner Element Replacement - Signs & How-To are listed in the parts section of this guide. Match the part to your exact model and serial number before you buy.

Is Samsung Oven Surface Burner Element Replacement - Signs & How-To a DIY repair or do I need a technician?

Many fixes are DIY-friendly with basic tools, such as door switches, drain pumps, water inlet valves, thermostats, heating elements, and filters. Sealed-system, refrigerant, gas, or high-voltage work should go to a licensed technician for safety.

Samsung Oven Surface Burner Element Replacement - Signs & How-To

Q: What does Samsung Oven Surface Burner Element Replacement - Signs & How-To mean?

Cooktop burner won't heat, only partial heating on dual elements, or visible burn marks mean a failed element or control switch. Replacing the surface burner element or infinite switch restores function.

Q: How do I fix Samsung Oven Surface Burner Element Replacement - Signs & How-To?

Work through the step-by-step fix below. Start with the quick reset and the most common cause, then check the specific part this guide points to. Most fixes need only basic hand tools and the right replacement part.

Samsung Oven Surface Burner Element Replacement — What This Part Does

The surface burner element (also called a coil or cooktop element) is the heating component that glows red and transfers heat to your cookware. It receives 240 VAC through a surface element control switch (infinite switch) that regulates temperature by cycling power on and off. The element can fail from thermal stress, mechanical damage, or corrosion at the terminals, causing an open circuit in the heating coil. On dual or triple elements, one heating zone can fail independently, leaving only the inner or outer ring working.

Many Samsung burner complaints are actually caused by a bad infinite switch rather than the element itself. The switch can fail to deliver switched voltage to the element terminals even when the element tests good for continuity. Loose, burned, or miswired terminals at the element or switch connection points also cause intermittent or total loss of heating. Visual inspection and voltage testing at the element terminals while the burner is on (around 240 VAC expected) help pinpoint whether the element or the switch is at fault.

Jump to Replacement Steps

Signs It Needs Replacing

Burner does not heat at all The element stays cold when turned on, indicating an open coil or no voltage reaching the terminals.
Only one zone heats on a dual or triple element The inner ring works but the outer does not (or vice versa), pointing to a partial element failure or a bad switch contact for that circuit.
Visible breaks, blisters, or burn marks on the coil Physical damage to the element surface or obvious breaks in the coil mean the heating element has failed.
Burned or loose terminals and connectors Charring, arcing marks, or wobbly spade terminals at the element or switch indicate poor electrical contact causing intermittent or no heating.
Element tests open with a multimeter An ohmmeter reading of infinite resistance (OL) across the element terminals confirms the coil has broken internally.
No voltage at element terminals when switch is on Measuring 240 VAC across the heater terminals with the burner commanded on shows whether the infinite switch is delivering power to the element.

How to Replace It

Unplug the range from the wall or switch off the dedicated circuit breaker at your electrical panel to kill all power to the appliance.
Remove the cooktop top panel, rear access panel, or control panel fasteners as required by your model to reach the burner element and its wiring connections.
Take a photo of all terminal connections and wire positions before disconnecting anything so you can restore them exactly during reassembly.
Visually inspect the element coil for breaks, hot spots, blisters, or burn marks, and check terminals for charring or looseness.
Disconnect the element terminals and test continuity across the heating coil with a multimeter set to ohms (a good element will show a low resistance, an open element reads OL or infinite).
If the element tests good, reconnect it temporarily, restore power, turn the burner on, and measure voltage across the element terminals (you should see around 240 VAC if the infinite switch is working).
If voltage is missing or incorrect, turn off power again and test or replace the surface element control switch (infinite switch) following the same access and testing procedures.
Install the new surface burner element by connecting the terminals to the same positions shown in your reference photo, then secure all mounting clips, brackets, and screws exactly as found.
Reassemble all panels and fasteners, restore power, and function-test the repaired burner on low, medium, and high settings to verify proper heating on all zones.

The Part You Need

Part	Notes
Samsung surface burner element (or triple element assembly)	Amazon \| Find your model and serial number on the metal tag inside the oven door frame or on the rear panel, then cross-reference that model number with the correct element part number in Samsung’s online parts catalog or at an appliance parts supplier.
Surface element control switch (infinite switch)	Amazon \| Order the exact switch for your model if testing shows the element is good but voltage is not switching properly to the burner terminals.

If this part is failing you may also see one of these codes:

When to Call a Pro

If you are not comfortable working with 240-volt wiring or if your model requires soldering or crimping new terminals onto the element harness, call a qualified appliance technician. Also call a pro if multiple burners fail at once (which can indicate a main control board or power supply issue), if you measure unexpected voltages that suggest a wiring fault elsewhere in the range, or if reassembly involves lifting a heavy glass cooktop that risks cracking without proper support. Always call a pro if you smell burning insulation, see arcing inside the range, or lack the tools to safely test live voltage. For gas line, burner, or igniter work, or if you ever smell gas, stop and call a licensed technician.