What does Whirlpool Oven Broiler Not Working - Causes & Fix mean?

Usually a failed broil element on electric models or a weak igniter on gas models. Check door closure and element continuity first.

How do I fix Whirlpool Oven Broiler Not Working - Causes & Fix?

Follow the step-by-step diagnosis below. The most likely fix is identified by checking power, sensor resistance, and control-board signals in order — using a multimeter and the part numbers documented in the parts reference table.

Can I keep running the equipment with this fault active?

Generally no. Faults on Appliance units are emitted when a sensor, safety, or control circuit is outside its operating envelope. Running through an active fault risks compressor, heater, or control-board damage. Diagnose and clear the fault first.

What part is most commonly replaced for Whirlpool Oven Broiler Not Working - Causes & Fix?

The most frequently replaced parts for Whirlpool Oven Broiler Not Working - Causes & Fix are listed in the Parts Reference section of this guide with OEM part numbers and typical price ranges. Check the table for direct replacements.

Is Whirlpool Oven Broiler Not Working - Causes & Fix a DIY repair or do I need a technician?

Sensor swaps, fan motor replacements, and condenser cleaning are typical DIY-level repairs. Anything involving refrigerant, gas, or high-voltage (>240V) work requires a licensed technician for both safety and code-compliance reasons.

Whirlpool Oven Broiler Not Working - Causes & Fix

Whirlpool Oven Broiler Not Working — What’s Happening

When your Whirlpool oven broiler will not heat, you are dealing with a symptom rather than a single fault code. Whirlpool’s own product help starts with door position and broil mode selection before moving into component diagnosis. The broil element will not energize if the oven door is open, and it turns off immediately if you open the door during broiling and resumes when you close it.

If the oven is set correctly and the door is fully closed but the broiler still does not heat, the problem is in the broil heat circuit. On electric models this usually means a failed broil element. On gas models the igniter is the most common culprit. Other possibilities include the oven temperature sensor, thermal fuse, control board, and wiring connections.

Jump to Fix

Most Likely Causes

Failed broil element (electric models) The element shows visible cracking, blistering, or does not glow evenly, and an ohms test will show no continuity.
Weak or failed igniter (gas models) The igniter cannot reach the temperature needed to open the gas valve, so the broiler will not light.
Door not fully closed or open-door interlock active Whirlpool design prevents the broil element from energizing when the door is open, so check that the door is latched completely.
Defective oven temperature sensor An out-of-range sensor sends inaccurate readings that can prevent proper broil operation or cause premature shutoff.
Blown thermal fuse A thermal fuse with no continuity interrupts power to the broil circuit and stops all broil function.
Control board not sending voltage If the board does not supply 240 VAC to the broil circuit, the element or igniter will not operate.
Damaged wiring or loose connectors Burned terminals or loose harness connections prevent voltage from reaching the broil element or igniter.

How to Diagnose and Fix

Verify the oven is set to BROIL mode and the door is closed completely.
Unplug the oven or turn off the circuit breaker, then inspect the broil element (electric) or igniter (gas) for visible damage, cracks, or blistering.
Test the broil element or igniter for continuity with a multimeter (power off). A good element will show continuity, and a bad one will read open.
Check the oven temperature sensor by disconnecting it and measuring resistance at room temperature. A good sensor typically reads 1,000 to 1,200 ohms.
Test the thermal fuse for continuity. If it is open, the fuse has blown and must be replaced.
Restore power and set the oven to BROIL, then carefully measure voltage at the broil element leads (or igniter circuit on gas models). You should see 240 VAC when broil is active.
If 240 VAC is present at the element but the element does not heat, replace the element. If no voltage is present, trace back through the wiring harness and check the control board output.
Inspect all wire connectors and terminals in the broil circuit for burn marks, corrosion, or loose fit, and repair or replace damaged wiring.

Parts You Might Need

Part	Notes
Whirlpool oven broil element	Amazon \| Primary part on electric ranges when element shows no continuity or visible damage.
Whirlpool oven igniter (gas models)	Amazon \| Primary part on gas ranges when broiler will not light.
Whirlpool oven temperature sensor	Amazon \| Replace when resistance is out of the 1,000 to 1,200 ohm range at room temperature.
Whirlpool oven thermal fuse	Amazon \| Single-use safety device. Replace if continuity test shows open circuit.

If your appliance also shows a code on the display, these match this problem:

When to Call a Pro

Call a qualified appliance technician if you are uncomfortable working with 240-volt circuits or if you have a gas model and suspect igniter or valve issues. Gas broiler repair involves working with natural gas or propane lines and electrical ignition components, and that work is best handled by a trained professional. Also call a pro if you have confirmed voltage at the element, replaced the element, and the broiler still does not work, since the issue may be in the control board or deeper wiring that requires specialized diagnostics. For gas line, burner, or igniter work, or if you ever smell gas, stop and call a licensed technician.