Can I keep running the equipment with this fault active?

Generally no. Faults on Appliance units are emitted when a sensor, safety, or control circuit is outside its operating envelope. Running through an active fault risks compressor, heater, or control-board damage. Diagnose and clear the fault first.

What part is most commonly replaced for Whirlpool Dishwasher Drain Pump Replacement - Signs & How-To?

The most frequently replaced parts for Whirlpool Dishwasher Drain Pump Replacement - Signs & How-To are listed in the Parts Reference section of this guide with OEM part numbers and typical price ranges. Check the table for direct replacements.

Is Whirlpool Dishwasher Drain Pump Replacement - Signs & How-To a DIY repair or do I need a technician?

Sensor swaps, fan motor replacements, and condenser cleaning are typical DIY-level repairs. Anything involving refrigerant, gas, or high-voltage (>240V) work requires a licensed technician for both safety and code-compliance reasons.

Whirlpool Dishwasher Drain Pump Replacement - Signs & How-To

Q: What does Whirlpool Dishwasher Drain Pump Replacement - Signs & How-To mean?

Water pooling in the tub, drain error codes, or gurgling during drain cycles mean your pump is blocked or failed. Replacing it restores drainage.

Q: How do I fix Whirlpool Dishwasher Drain Pump Replacement - Signs & How-To?

Follow the step-by-step diagnosis below. The most likely fix is identified by checking power, sensor resistance, and control-board signals in order — using a multimeter and the part numbers documented in the parts reference table.

Whirlpool Dishwasher Drain Pump Replacement — What This Part Does

The drain pump forces water out of the dishwasher tub at the end of each cycle, pushing it through the drain hose to your disposal or sink drain. Whirlpool lists drain faults as obstructed drain hoses or paths, fractured impellers, open motor windings, debris stuck in the impeller, open fuses on the control to the drain motor, or a failed drain motor drive circuit on the control.

Over time, food debris jams the impeller, the impeller cracks from wear, or the motor windings open. When the control detects that the machine did not achieve a normal drain condition during the diagnostic or cycle sequence, it throws a drain fault. A plugged garbage disposal, un-removed knockout plug, drain loop check-valve issue, plugged hoses, or loose high-resistance connections can all trigger the same symptom.

Jump to Replacement Steps

Signs It Needs Replacing

Standing water in the tub after a cycle Water remains pooled at the bottom because the pump cannot move it through the drain path or the impeller is fractured.
Drain error code on the display The control flags a drain fault when the machine did not achieve a normal drain condition during the diagnostic or cycle sequence.
Humming or grinding during drain phase Debris stuck in the drain motor impeller or a damaged impeller creates unusual noise as the pump tries to turn.
Pump runs but water does not evacuate A fractured or stripped impeller spins freely but does not generate pressure to push water out.
Gurgling or slow drainage Partial blockages in the drain hose, check valve, or disposal knockout create back-pressure and slow water movement.
Pump does not energize at all Open motor windings, an open fuse on the control to the drain motor, or a failed drain motor drive circuit on the control prevent the pump from running.

How to Replace It

Unplug the dishwasher from the wall outlet or switch off the dedicated breaker, and turn off the water supply valve under the sink.
Enter diagnostic mode per your service sheet and verify the drain error code before replacing any parts.
Check the external drain path first by inspecting the hose from the sump or check valve all the way to the disposal or sink drain, confirming the garbage disposal inlet knockout was removed and the drain loop is not obstructed, and clearing any kinks, clogs, or blocked check-valve passages.
Remove the lower dish rack and the filter assembly from the tub floor, then pull out any debris or water from the sump cavity.
Remove the toe kick or bottom access panel, locate the drain pump on the left side of the sump housing, and disconnect the two-wire electrical connector from the pump.
Release the pump retaining tab by pressing or rotating it per your model’s design, then twist or pull the drain pump body out of the sump housing.
Check the old impeller for fractures, binding, or debris, and confirm that normal hand rotation has some uneven resistance but is not free-spinning or seized.
Test the drain motor winding resistance with a multimeter and inspect all wire connections in the drain circuit for loose or high-resistance terminals if the pump does not show obvious mechanical damage.
Install the new drain pump by inserting the pump into the sump housing, rotating or snapping the retaining tab into place, reconnecting the two-wire harness, and verifying the pump seats flush against the housing.
Reinstall the filter assembly and lower rack, restore power and water, and run a rinse cycle in diagnostic mode to confirm the pump energizes and evacuates water completely.

The Part You Need

Part	Notes
Whirlpool dishwasher drain pump	Amazon \| Look up your exact model and serial number on the data plate inside the door edge or tub wall to cross-reference the correct drain pump part number from Whirlpool or an authorized parts supplier.

If this part is failing you may also see one of these codes:

When to Call a Pro

If the new drain pump still does not run or the error persists after you have cleared all drain-path blockages and confirmed good wiring resistance, the issue is likely an open fuse on the control to the drain motor or a failed drain motor drive circuit on the control. Testing and replacing the electronic control requires tracing live circuits and working inside the door panel, so call a factory-trained technician to diagnose control-side faults safely.