What does Samsung Washer Won't Drain - Causes & Fix mean?

A clogged drain pump filter is the most common culprit. Pull the front access panel, unscrew the filter, clear any debris, and test a drain cycle.

How do I fix Samsung Washer Won't Drain - Causes & Fix?

Follow the step-by-step diagnosis below. The most likely fix is identified by checking power, sensor resistance, and control-board signals in order — using a multimeter and the part numbers documented in the parts reference table.

Can I keep running the equipment with this fault active?

Generally no. Faults on Appliance units are emitted when a sensor, safety, or control circuit is outside its operating envelope. Running through an active fault risks compressor, heater, or control-board damage. Diagnose and clear the fault first.

What part is most commonly replaced for Samsung Washer Won't Drain - Causes & Fix?

The most frequently replaced parts for Samsung Washer Won't Drain - Causes & Fix are listed in the Parts Reference section of this guide with OEM part numbers and typical price ranges. Check the table for direct replacements.

Is Samsung Washer Won't Drain - Causes & Fix a DIY repair or do I need a technician?

Sensor swaps, fan motor replacements, and condenser cleaning are typical DIY-level repairs. Anything involving refrigerant, gas, or high-voltage (>240V) work requires a licensed technician for both safety and code-compliance reasons.

Samsung Washer Won't Drain - Causes & Fix

Samsung Washer Won’t Drain — What’s Happening

When your Samsung washer won’t drain, it usually means the machine has detected a drainage problem and may display error codes like 5C, SC, SE, or ND. These codes tell you the washer was unable to remove water within the expected time during the drain portion of the cycle. The machine either has insufficient drain flow or the drain pump isn’t operating at all.

In practical terms, the control board flags a drain fault because water is still sitting in the tub after the drain cycle should have finished. This prevents the washer from advancing into the spin cycle and leaves you with a tub full of standing water and wet clothes.

Jump to Fix

Most Likely Causes

Clogged drain pump filter Lint, coins, small clothing items, and sludge accumulate in the filter and block water flow, making this the single most common cause of no-drain complaints.
Blocked or kinked drain hose The hose from the pump to the standpipe can kink, crush, or develop a restriction at the connection point, preventing water from leaving the machine.
Drain pump impeller obstruction or mechanical failure Foreign debris like coins, fabric, or glass can jam the pump impeller, or the impeller vanes themselves can break and stop moving water.
Failed drain pump motor The pump motor can burn out electrically so it hums but doesn’t spin, or it may fail to run at all even when voltage is present.
Faulty door lock or lid switch Models that require a valid lock signal before drain and spin can start will refuse to pump if the lock assembly or switch has failed.
Control board or wiring issue If the PCB doesn’t send 120 VAC to the pump during the drain cycle, or if connectors and harness wiring are corroded or loose, the pump won’t receive power.
Excessive suds from detergent overload Too much detergent can create a suds lock that interferes with drainage and sometimes triggers related error behavior alongside the drain fault.

How to Diagnose and Fix

Verify the symptom by starting a drain/spin cycle and watching whether water begins to leave the tub or if the washer immediately throws a drain error code.
Pull the front lower access panel and locate the drain pump filter (usually a round twist-off cap on the bottom right), then place towels and a shallow pan underneath to catch residual water.
Unscrew the filter counterclockwise, pull it out, and clear away any lint, coins, buttons, or sludge buildup, then rinse the filter under running water and reinstall it.
Check the drain hose from the back of the washer to the standpipe for kinks, crushing, or improper installation height, and remove and flush the hose if you suspect a clog inside.
Start a drain cycle and listen at the pump location: a humming noise with no water movement suggests a blocked or failing pump, while complete silence suggests no electrical supply.
If you hear nothing, unplug the washer, pull it forward, remove the back or bottom panel to access the drain pump, and disconnect the pump electrical connector to test for 120 VAC at the connector during a drain cycle.
If voltage is present and the pump does not run, or if you found debris jamming the impeller, replace the drain pump assembly.
Reassemble the machine, run a full drain and spin test cycle, and confirm water exits completely and no error codes return.

Parts You Might Need

Part	Notes
Drain pump assembly	Amazon \| Match the pump to your exact Samsung washer model number, which is on the door frame or back panel.
Drain hose	Amazon \| Order the pump-to-tub or pump-to-standpipe hose if yours is cracked, punctured, or permanently clogged.
Door lock assembly	Amazon \| Required if the washer won’t enter drain/spin due to a lock fault preventing cycle advancement.

Seeing a code on the display? These match this problem:

When to Call a Pro

Call a technician if you’ve cleaned the filter and hoses, verified the pump receives 120 VAC during drain, and the pump still won’t run, because pump replacement requires partial disassembly and reconnecting water-tight hose clamps. Also call if you have no voltage at the pump connector, since that points to a control board, wiring harness, or connector issue that needs methodical electrical tracing. If the door lock is suspected and you’re uncomfortable working with live mains voltage or removing the door boot and lock assembly, professional diagnosis will pinpoint the fault and prevent unnecessary part replacements.