Samsung Washer Drain Pump Replacement — What This Part Does
The drain pump forces water out of the tub through the drain hose at the end of each cycle and during spin. Samsung washers trigger drain-error codes (5E, SE, E2, 5C, or ND depending on the model) when water does not empty within the expected time window. The pump motor can fail electrically after years of use, or the impeller can jam when coins, lint, hair, or small objects bypass the filter and lodge in the housing. A clogged pump filter or kinked drain hose will also prevent draining, so always check those before replacing the pump itself.
Samsung’s troubleshooting pages list foreign material in the pump, a faulty pump motor, loose wiring to the pump, or a main-board fault as the common causes behind these drain codes. When the filter is clean, the hose is clear, and the pump still will not run or hums without moving water, the pump assembly is the part to replace.
Signs It Needs Replacing
- 5E, SE, ND, 5C, or E2 error code on the display Samsung ties these codes to drain failures caused by a blocked or faulty drain pump.
- Water remains in the drum after the cycle ends The pump cannot move water out through the drain hose when it is jammed or electrically dead.
- Washer stops mid-cycle and will not spin The control board halts the program when it detects that the tub has not emptied in the expected time.
- Pump hums or buzzes but does not drain The motor is receiving power but the impeller is jammed by debris or the motor windings are failing.
- Drain cycle takes much longer than normal A weak pump motor or partial blockage slows water removal before the pump stops completely.
- Gurgling or grinding noise from the lower front of the washer Foreign objects caught in the impeller scrape against the pump housing during drain attempts.
How to Replace It
- Unplug the washer from the wall outlet and turn off the hot and cold supply valves behind the machine.
- Open the small access door at the lower front and place towels on the floor to catch residual water.
- Pull out the drain-pump filter cap slowly and let any remaining water drain into a shallow pan, then remove and clean the filter of lint, coins, and debris.
- Tilt the washer back against the wall or lay it forward on cardboard to access the underside, depending on your model’s pump location (some Samsung front-loaders have the pump accessible from below).
- Disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses from the pump body using pliers to release the spring clamps, and have a towel ready for spillage.
- Unplug the wire harness from the pump motor, noting the orientation of the locking tab.
- Remove the mounting screws or release the twist-lock tabs that hold the pump assembly to the sump housing, then lift the old pump free.
- Install the new pump assembly onto the sump housing, secure it with screws or twist-lock tabs, and reconnect both hoses with new clamps if the originals are weakened.
- Plug the wire harness back onto the new pump until the tab clicks, return the washer to its upright position, replace the pump filter cap, close the access door, restore power and water, and run a drain-and-spin test cycle to confirm normal operation.
The Part You Need
| Part | Notes |
|---|---|
| Samsung washer drain pump assembly | Amazon | Locate your washer’s model and serial number on the label inside the door frame or on the back panel, then search that exact model number with “drain pump” to find the correct replacement; pump designs vary across Samsung front-load and top-load series. |
Related Error Codes
If this part is failing you may also see one of these codes:
- Samsung Washer 1C error code
- Samsung Washer 4C error code
- Samsung Washer 5E error code
- Samsung Washer Ae error code
- Samsung Washer Bc error code
- Samsung Washer Bc1 error code
- Samsung Washer Be error code
- Samsung Washer Be0 error code
- Samsung Washer Be1 error code
- Samsung Washer Be2 error code
When to Call a Pro
If you have cleared the filter and hose and confirmed the pump is receiving power at its connector but the new pump still does not run, the fault is upstream in the wiring harness or on the main control board. Diagnosing PCB faults requires a schematic and a multimeter, and board-level repair or replacement is best left to a qualified appliance technician. Also call a pro if your washer uses a direct-drive or integrated pump-motor module that requires special disassembly, or if you are uncomfortable working with electrical connectors and water hoses in a confined space.