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Rheem Furnace Blowing Cold Air - Causes & Fix

4 min read
⚡ Quick Answer

Most often the thermostat fan is set to ON instead of AUTO, running the blower constantly with no heat call. Switch to AUTO first.

Difficulty Pro recommended
Est. time 1-3 hrs

Rheem Furnace Blowing Cold Air — What’s Happening

When a Rheem furnace blows cold air, the blower is running but the burners are not producing heat. This is a symptom, not a specific fault code. The furnace may be failing to ignite, losing flame after ignition, or shutting down the burners on a safety fault while the blower continues to move room-temperature air.

The exact cause depends on the flash code displayed on the integrated furnace control board. Common scenarios include ignition failure, flame sensor dropout, or a safety device like a high-limit or rollout switch opening and stopping the burners while the blower keeps running to clear heat or because the thermostat fan setting is incorrect.

Jump to Fix

Most Likely Causes

How to Diagnose and Fix

  1. Verify the thermostat is calling for heat and the fan switch is set to AUTO, not ON, to rule out continuous blower operation from the thermostat.
  2. Inspect and replace the air filter if dirty, and check that supply registers and return grilles are open and unobstructed.
  3. Read the LED flash code on the Rheem integrated furnace control board and cross-reference it with the unit’s service manual to identify any active fault or lockout condition.
  4. Observe a complete ignition sequence from the inducer startup through flame establishment, watching for igniter glow, gas valve opening, flame lighting, and whether the burner stays lit or drops out.
  5. If the burners do not ignite, check that gas is on at the meter and manual valve, inspect the hot surface igniter for cracks or failure to glow, and verify gas valve wiring and operation.
  6. If the burner lights then shuts off within seconds, remove and clean the flame sensor rod with fine sandpaper or a soft cloth, check its position in the flame, and test for continuity and proper microamp signal.
  7. Test rollout switches, high-limit switches, and the pressure switch for proper closure and reset, inspect the inducer motor and venting for blockage or restriction, and check pressure switch tubing for clogs or cracks.
  8. On condensing models, inspect the condensate trap and drain line for clogs, flush or clear as needed, and verify the trap is properly filled and sealed to maintain draft.

Parts You Might Need

PartNotes
Hot surface igniterAmazon | Replace if cracked, broken, or does not glow bright orange during ignition sequence.
Flame sensorAmazon | Clean first with fine abrasive; replace if cleaning does not restore flame proving.
Pressure switchAmazon | Replace if it does not close to prove draft when the inducer is running and tubing is clear.
Air filterAmazon | Standard consumable; replace at manufacturer intervals or when visibly dirty or restricted.

If your appliance also shows a code on the display, these match this problem:

When to Call a Pro

Call a qualified HVAC technician for any work involving gas supply, gas valve testing, ignition system replacement, or combustion venting. If you have cleared the filter and confirmed the thermostat fan setting but the furnace still does not produce heat or shows a fault code you cannot resolve, professional diagnosis with combustion analysis and electrical testing is the safe next step. Flame sensor issues and pressure switch diagnostics can often be handled by a homeowner comfortable with basic electrical testing, but igniter replacement and all gas-side troubleshooting should be left to a licensed pro. For gas line, burner, or igniter work, or if you ever smell gas, stop and call a licensed technician.


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