How do I fix Maytag Dishwasher Standing Water in Bottom - Causes & Fix?

Work through the step-by-step fix below. Start with the quick reset and the most common cause, then check the specific part this guide points to. Most fixes need only basic hand tools and the right replacement part.

Can I keep using my Maytag appliance with this error showing?

Usually not. Maytag appliances show this error when a part or safety circuit is out of range, so running it can stop the cycle or make the problem worse. Diagnose and clear the error before normal use.

What part is most commonly replaced for Maytag Dishwasher Standing Water in Bottom - Causes & Fix?

The parts that most often fix Maytag Dishwasher Standing Water in Bottom - Causes & Fix are listed in the parts section of this guide. Match the part to your exact model and serial number before you buy.

Is Maytag Dishwasher Standing Water in Bottom - Causes & Fix a DIY repair or do I need a technician?

Many fixes are DIY-friendly with basic tools, such as door switches, drain pumps, water inlet valves, thermostats, heating elements, and filters. Sealed-system, refrigerant, gas, or high-voltage work should go to a licensed technician for safety.

Maytag Dishwasher Standing Water in Bottom - Causes & Fix

Q: What does Maytag Dishwasher Standing Water in Bottom - Causes & Fix mean?

Standing water after a cycle usually means a clog in the drain filter, hose, or disposal connection. Clear the filter first.

Maytag Dishwasher Standing Water in Bottom — What’s Happening

A Maytag dishwasher with standing water in the bottom is reporting a drain failure. Maytag describes this as water remaining at the end of a completed cycle, not just an interrupted wash. On models with diagnostics, this symptom commonly aligns with the F9E1 code, though not every machine displays fault codes the same way.

Maytag’s guidance identifies the problem as a blockage in the drain path or a failed drain component. The dishwasher completes its wash but cannot pump water out, leaving a pool in the tub. This is different from a mid-cycle stop or fill problem.

Jump to Fix

Most Likely Causes

Clogged drain filter or debris in sump Food particles, labels, glass, or plastic trapped in the filter or sump area block water from reaching the pump.
Garbage disposal knockout plug not removed If the dishwasher drains into a new disposal, the plastic knockout plug inside the disposer inlet must be removed or water cannot discharge.
Kinked or obstructed drain hose The drain hose can kink under the cabinet, pinch at a connection point, or accumulate grease and debris inside.
Garbage disposal or sink drain blockage A clogged disposal or sink drain on the same line prevents the dishwasher from pumping water out.
Blocked air gap If an air gap is installed on the countertop, food or mineral buildup inside the cylinder can stop drainage.
Failed or jammed drain pump The drain pump motor can seize, jam on debris, or fail electrically so it cannot move water through the hose.
Stuck check valve or drain valve A check valve or flapper stuck in the closed position traps water in the tub even if the pump runs.

How to Diagnose and Fix

Confirm the symptom by verifying water remains after a full completed cycle, not an interrupted wash. If the cycle was stopped early, run a new cycle or reset the machine first.
Unplug the dishwasher and bail out standing water with towels or a cup so you can safely inspect the filter and sump.
Remove the lower spray arm and filter assembly. Clean the filter and check the sump well for trapped food, glass, plastic, or labels.
Inspect the drain hose under the sink for kinks, tight bends, or pinches. Check that it is not installed higher than 20 inches at any point.
If the dishwasher connects to a garbage disposal, run the disposal to clear any blockage. If the disposal is new, verify the knockout plug has been removed from the disposer inlet.
If an air gap is installed on the countertop, remove the chrome cap and clean any debris from inside the cylinder and vent passages.
Disconnect the drain hose at the sink or air gap side and command a drain cycle (or start a cycle and advance to drain). If water flows freely into a bucket, the problem is downstream. If flow is weak or absent, the pump or hose is restricted.
Access the drain pump (usually below the sump). Check for jammed debris or a seized impeller. If the pump spins freely and the hose is clear, test for voltage at the pump terminals during a drain cycle. A reading near 120 volts with no pump action means the pump has failed. No voltage points to wiring or control board trouble.

Parts You Might Need

Part	Notes
Drain pump / drain motor	Amazon \| Required if the pump is jammed, seized, or electrically open.
Drain hose	Amazon \| Replace if kinked, cracked, or internally clogged and not cleanable.
Check valve / drain valve	Amazon \| Needed if the valve flapper is stuck closed or damaged.

If your appliance also shows a code on the display, these match this problem:

When to Call a Pro

Call a pro if you have cleared the filter, hose, and disposal but water still remains, or if the pump runs but no water moves. Electrical testing of the pump and control board requires a multimeter and safe access to live circuits. If the drain pump needs replacement and you are not comfortable working under the dishwasher or handling wiring connections, a technician can swap the part and verify the repair in one visit.