What does Kenmore Oven Igniter Not Working - Causes & Fix mean?

A weak hot-surface igniter that glows but doesn't draw enough current to open the gas valve is the most common cause. Replace the igniter.

How do I fix Kenmore Oven Igniter Not Working - Causes & Fix?

Work through the step-by-step fix below. Start with the quick reset and the most common cause, then check the specific part this guide points to. Most fixes need only basic hand tools and the right replacement part.

Can I keep using my Kenmore appliance with this error showing?

Usually not. Kenmore appliances show this error when a part or safety circuit is out of range, so running it can stop the cycle or make the problem worse. Diagnose and clear the error before normal use.

What part is most commonly replaced for Kenmore Oven Igniter Not Working - Causes & Fix?

The parts that most often fix Kenmore Oven Igniter Not Working - Causes & Fix are listed in the parts section of this guide. Match the part to your exact model and serial number before you buy.

Is Kenmore Oven Igniter Not Working - Causes & Fix a DIY repair or do I need a technician?

Many fixes are DIY-friendly with basic tools, such as door switches, drain pumps, water inlet valves, thermostats, heating elements, and filters. Sealed-system, refrigerant, gas, or high-voltage work should go to a licensed technician for safety.

Kenmore Oven Igniter Not Working - Causes & Fix

Kenmore Oven Igniter Not Working — What’s Happening

When your Kenmore gas oven igniter is not working, the oven burner won’t light even though the cooktop may still function normally. The igniter’s job is to heat up and draw enough current (typically 3.0 to 3.6 amps) to signal the oven safety valve to open and release gas to the burner. If the igniter is weak, dead, loose, or if the gas path is blocked, the oven will not ignite.

The most common symptom is a glowing igniter that never lights the burner, very long preheat times, or no glow at all. The igniter may glow orange or dim red but fail to reach the bright cherry-red heat needed to pull sufficient amperage and open the valve. Less often, a failed safety valve, burner debris, or wiring fault will prevent ignition even when the igniter itself is good.

Jump to Fix

Most Likely Causes

Weak hot-surface igniter The igniter glows but does not pull the 3.0 to 3.6 amps needed to open the oven safety valve, so gas never flows and the burner never lights.
Failed igniter (no glow or intermittent operation) The igniter is completely dead, flickers, or does not heat at all when the oven calls for bake or broil.
Bad oven safety valve The igniter heats correctly but the valve itself has failed and will not open to release gas, often affecting both bake and broil functions.
Loose or mis-mounted igniter The igniter is not secured correctly in the burner area, causing poor contact, misalignment, or intermittent operation.
Blocked burner port or debris in burner head Food debris or spills obstruct the burner ports, preventing gas from reaching the ignition point even when the valve opens.
Wiring or connector fault Unplugged, damaged, or corroded connections in the igniter or valve circuit interrupt current flow and prevent ignition.
Gas supply or regulator problem If the cooktop burners also fail to light, the issue is upstream at the gas supply line, shut-off valve, or pressure regulator, not the oven igniter.

How to Diagnose and Fix

Turn off power at the breaker and shut off the gas supply at the appliance valve before any inspection or repair.
Test the cooktop burners to verify gas is reaching the range. If they do not light, diagnose the gas supply, regulator, or main shut-off before working on the oven igniter circuit.
Restore power, set the oven to bake, and observe the igniter through the oven window or open door. A healthy hot-surface igniter should glow bright cherry red within about one to two minutes.
If the igniter glows but the burner does not light, use a clamp ammeter on one igniter wire lead while the oven is calling for heat. Compare the reading to the valve’s opening range (typically 3.0 to 3.6 amps). Readings below 3.0 amps are suspect and below 2.6 amps indicate a weak or failed igniter.
Turn off power and gas, then inspect the igniter mounting bracket and electrical connections for looseness, damage, or corrosion. Reconnect or tighten any loose terminals.
Check the oven safety valve for continuity using a multimeter with power off. An open-line (OL) reading indicates a failed valve that must be replaced.
Remove the oven burner assembly and inspect the burner ports and igniter area for food debris, grease, or blockages. Clean obstructions carefully without enlarging the port openings.
Replace the igniter if it tests weak on current draw or shows no glow. If the igniter tests good but the valve has no continuity, replace the oven safety valve. Igniter and gas-valve work should be performed by a qualified technician.

Parts You Might Need

Part	Notes
Hot-surface oven igniter (glow bar igniter)	Amazon \| The igniter that heats and draws current to open the gas valve. Most common repair part.
Oven safety valve (gas valve)	Amazon \| Controls gas flow to the oven burner. Replace if continuity test shows open circuit or if igniter tests good but burner will not light.

If your appliance also shows a code on the display, these match this problem:

When to Call a Pro

Gas appliance repair requires working with live gas lines and high-temperature ignition components. If you are not comfortable shutting off gas, performing amp-draw tests with a clamp meter, or removing burner assemblies, call a qualified appliance technician. Any work on the oven safety valve or gas connections should be done by a professional to prevent gas leaks, carbon monoxide hazards, or fire. If you smell gas at any point, leave the home immediately and call your gas utility or fire department. For gas line, burner, or igniter work, or if you ever smell gas, stop and call a licensed technician.