What does Bosch Refrigerator Running Constantly - Causes & Fix mean?

Most often a worn door seal lets warm air in constantly. Check the gasket first, then sensors and defrost components.

How do I fix Bosch Refrigerator Running Constantly - Causes & Fix?

Work through the step-by-step fix below. Start with the quick reset and the most common cause, then check the specific part this guide points to. Most fixes need only basic hand tools and the right replacement part.

Can I keep using my Bosch appliance with this error showing?

Usually not. Bosch appliances show this error when a part or safety circuit is out of range, so running it can stop the cycle or make the problem worse. Diagnose and clear the error before normal use.

What part is most commonly replaced for Bosch Refrigerator Running Constantly - Causes & Fix?

The parts that most often fix Bosch Refrigerator Running Constantly - Causes & Fix are listed in the parts section of this guide. Match the part to your exact model and serial number before you buy.

Is Bosch Refrigerator Running Constantly - Causes & Fix a DIY repair or do I need a technician?

Many fixes are DIY-friendly with basic tools, such as door switches, drain pumps, water inlet valves, thermostats, heating elements, and filters. Sealed-system, refrigerant, gas, or high-voltage work should go to a licensed technician for safety.

Bosch Refrigerator Running Constantly - Causes & Fix

Bosch Refrigerator Running Constantly — What’s Happening

A Bosch refrigerator running constantly means the compressor and fans never shut off. The control board thinks the internal temperature is still too warm, so it keeps the cooling cycle going non-stop. This happens when the fridge cannot remove heat fast enough or when a faulty sensor or stuck relay keeps the system locked in cooling mode.

You may not see an error code at all. Some models display E06 for cooling errors or E01/E02 for sensor faults, but the core problem is the same. The unit is trying to reach the set temperature and failing, or it thinks it has not reached that point even when it has.

Jump to Fix

Most Likely Causes

Worn door seal (gasket) The rubber gasket around the door is cracked or loose, letting warm air leak in constantly and preventing the fridge from reaching the set temperature.
Overfilled cabinet blocking vents Items stacked too tightly block the internal air vents, preventing cold air circulation and causing the compressor to run indefinitely.
Damaged temperature sensor The thermistor or temperature sensor is reading incorrectly, reporting a warmer temperature than actual and forcing the compressor to stay on.
Defective defrost thermostat or timer The defrost system fails to cycle properly, causing ice buildup on the evaporator coils or keeping the defrost heater running, which makes the compressor compensate.
Faulty control board or relay The main control board logic is stuck in cooling mode or the compressor relay is welded closed, keeping power to the compressor.
Weak compressor or refrigerant leak The compressor has low compression or there is a slow refrigerant leak, reducing cooling capacity so the unit never shuts off.
High ambient temperature The fridge is in a very hot room or near a heat source, overwhelming the cooling capacity and preventing normal cycling.

How to Diagnose and Fix

Check the door seal by closing the door on a piece of paper and trying to pull it out. If it slides easily, the gasket is worn and needs replacement.
Remove items blocking the air vents inside the fridge and freezer compartments. Look for the cold air return vents along the back wall and on top shelves.
Verify the ambient temperature around the unit. Move the fridge away from heat sources like ovens, radiators, or direct sunlight if possible.
Inspect the evaporator coils (usually behind the back panel inside the freezer). If you see heavy frost buildup, the defrost system is likely failing.
Test the temperature sensor by accessing it (often near the evaporator or in the fresh food section) and checking continuity with a multimeter. Compare resistance values to the manufacturer’s spec for your model.
Listen to the compressor. If it runs but the coils are not getting warm and the interior is not cooling, suspect a weak compressor or refrigerant leak.
Check the control board for stuck relays or burned traces. Look for a relay that clicks when the fridge is unplugged and plugged back in. If it stays silent or the compressor never stops, the board may be faulty.
If you have a dual evaporator model, check the air damper between the freezer and fridge. A stuck damper can cause uneven cooling and constant running.

Parts You Might Need

Part	Notes
Door gasket	Amazon \| Order by model number for exact fit
Temperature sensor (thermistor)	Amazon \| Located near evaporator or in fresh food section
Defrost thermostat	Amazon \| Mounted on evaporator coils
Control board	Amazon \| Match part number on existing board

If your appliance also shows a code on the display, these match this problem:

When to Call a Pro

Call a technician if you find ice buildup on the evaporator coils after checking the defrost system, if the compressor runs but produces no cooling, or if you suspect a refrigerant leak. Refrigerant work requires EPA certification and specialized equipment. Also call a pro if you are not comfortable testing electrical components with a multimeter or removing interior panels. Control board and compressor replacement often require soldering or refrigerant recovery, which are not DIY jobs.