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Amana Refrigerator Freezer Not Freezing - Causes & Fix

4 min read

Independent. We don't sell parts, so we tell you when not to buy one.

⚡ Quick Answer

Dirty condenser coils are the most common reason an Amana freezer stops cooling. Clean the coils and check the condenser fan motor.

Difficulty Intermediate (DIY)
Est. time 15-60 min
Tools Multimeter , nut driver, screwdrivers

Amana Refrigerator Freezer Not Freezing — What’s Happening

When your Amana refrigerator freezer is not freezing, the unit has lost normal cooling performance. Amana’s published guidance describes this as a failure to maintain proper temperature, most often caused by power supply problems, incorrect control settings, showroom mode being enabled, or airflow and component failures rather than a single fault code.

The symptom usually traces back to mechanical or electrical issues that prevent the compressor from running correctly, block heat rejection at the condenser, or stop cold air from circulating inside the cabinet. Common culprits include dirty condenser coils, failed fan motors, faulty start components at the compressor, defrost system failures that ice over the evaporator, and control or sensor faults that misread cabinet temperature.

Jump to Fix

Most Likely Causes

How to Diagnose and Fix

  1. Verify the refrigerator is plugged into a working 115-V, 60-Hz grounded outlet, the circuit breaker or fuse is good, and the unit is turned on.
  2. Check the control panel for ‘Showroom’ or demo mode and disable it per your use-and-care guide if enabled.
  3. Unplug the unit, pull it away from the wall, and inspect the condenser coils on the back or underneath for heavy dust buildup, then clean them with a coil brush or vacuum.
  4. Confirm the condenser fan motor (usually near the compressor) spins freely by hand and runs when the compressor is on, then test the motor windings for continuity and replace the motor if it fails.
  5. Open the freezer, locate the evaporator fan (often behind an interior panel), listen for it running, and verify the blade spins freely, then test the motor for continuity and replace it if defective.
  6. Locate the start relay and start capacitor on the side of the compressor, remove each component, and test the relay for continuity and the capacitor for proper capacitance, replacing either part if it tests bad or shows burn marks.
  7. If the compressor and both fans run but cooling is still poor, inspect the evaporator for heavy frost or ice buildup, check for blocked air ducts or a stuck damper, and test the defrost heater, defrost thermostat, and defrost timer or control board.
  8. Test the thermistor (temperature sensor) with a multimeter for correct resistance at room temperature, inspect all wiring for damage, and evaluate the main control board only after confirming all mechanical components and sensors are good.

Parts You Might Need

PartNotes
Condenser fan motorAmazon | Pulls air through the condenser coils to reject heat.
Evaporator fan motorAmazon | Circulates cold air from the evaporator into the cabinet.
Start relay and start capacitorAmazon | Mounted on the compressor to help it start reliably.
Thermistor (temperature sensor)Amazon | Reports cabinet temperature to the control board.

If your appliance also shows a code on the display, these match this problem:

When to Call a Pro

Call a professional if you are not comfortable working with live 115-volt circuits, if you lack a multimeter or the experience to test motors and capacitors safely, or if all fans and start components test good but the freezer still will not cool. Sealed-system repairs such as refrigerant leaks or compressor replacement require EPA certification, specialized tools, and refrigerant handling that are not DIY-appropriate. A qualified appliance technician can also diagnose complex control board or defrost control faults that require part-specific testing beyond basic continuity checks.


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