Can I keep running the equipment with this fault active?

Generally no. Faults on Appliance units are emitted when a sensor, safety, or control circuit is outside its operating envelope. Running through an active fault risks compressor, heater, or control-board damage. Diagnose and clear the fault first.

What part is most commonly replaced for Samsung Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve Replacement - Signs & How-To?

The most frequently replaced parts for Samsung Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve Replacement - Signs & How-To are listed in the Parts Reference section of this guide with OEM part numbers and typical price ranges. Check the table for direct replacements.

Is Samsung Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve Replacement - Signs & How-To a DIY repair or do I need a technician?

Sensor swaps, fan motor replacements, and condenser cleaning are typical DIY-level repairs. Anything involving refrigerant, gas, or high-voltage (>240V) work requires a licensed technician for both safety and code-compliance reasons.

Samsung Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve Replacement - Signs & How-To

Q: What does Samsung Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve Replacement - Signs & How-To mean?

No ice or water from your Samsung fridge? A failed water inlet valve usually causes slow fill, no fill, or leaks. Replace the valve to restore flow.

Q: How do I fix Samsung Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve Replacement - Signs & How-To?

Follow the step-by-step diagnosis below. The most likely fix is identified by checking power, sensor resistance, and control-board signals in order — using a multimeter and the part numbers documented in the parts reference table.

Samsung Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve Replacement — What This Part Does

The water inlet valve is an electrically operated solenoid valve that opens to let household water into your Samsung refrigerator when the control board calls for it. It supplies water to both the ice maker and the door dispenser. When the valve is energized, the solenoid coil pulls open a plunger that allows water to flow through. Over time the solenoid coil can burn out or fail electrically, and mineral sediment or debris inside the valve body can jam the mechanism or prevent proper seating.

Most field failures show up as weak or zero water flow to the ice maker, dispenser, or both. Leaks at the valve body or fittings are also common when plastic retainers crack or the valve seats no longer seal. If the valve solenoid tests outside the normal resistance range (typically 100–500 ohms per coil) or shows no continuity at all, replacement is required.

Jump to Replacement Steps

Signs It Needs Replacing

No water to ice maker or dispenser The fridge produces no ice and the door dispenser delivers no water, even though the household water supply is on and the filter is good.
Slow or intermittent water flow Ice production has slowed dramatically or the dispenser dribbles water instead of flowing normally, pointing to a valve that opens only partially.
Leaking water behind the refrigerator Water pools on the floor or drips from the rear panel where the valve connects, indicating a failed seal or cracked fitting at the valve body.
Valve solenoid tests open or out of range Multimeter continuity check of the valve coil shows infinite resistance (open circuit) or reads significantly above 500 ohms or below 100 ohms.
Humming or buzzing at the valve but no water You hear the valve trying to energize when you press the dispenser paddle, but no water comes out because the solenoid cannot open the plunger.
Both ice maker and dispenser fail together When both outlets lose water at the same time and the filter housing is good, the common inlet valve is the most likely culprit.

How to Replace It

Unplug the refrigerator and shut off the household water supply valve behind or beneath the unit.
Move the refrigerator away from the wall to access the rear lower panel where the water inlet valve is mounted.
Remove the screws securing the rear access panel and set the panel aside.
Locate the water inlet valve (usually a plastic block with one inlet line and one or more outlet lines) and unplug the wiring harness from the valve solenoid terminals.
Press the quick-connect collar on each water line and pull the tubing free from the valve fittings, then catch any residual water with a towel.
Remove the mounting screws or bracket holding the valve to the frame and lift the old valve out.
Install the new valve in the same orientation, secure it with the bracket screws, and push each water line firmly into the valve fittings until they click and lock.
Reconnect the wiring harness to the solenoid terminals, making sure the connector seats fully.
Reinstall the rear access panel, turn on the household water supply, plug in the refrigerator, and check all connections for leaks before pushing the unit back into place.

The Part You Need

Part	Notes
Samsung water inlet valve	Amazon \| Part number varies by model (common examples include DA97-08587A). Find your exact part number on the model and serial plate inside the refrigerator door or on the left interior wall, then cross-reference it with the valve listed in your model’s parts diagram.

If this part is failing you may also see one of these codes:

When to Call a Pro

Call a technician if you are uncomfortable working with water supply lines or if basic troubleshooting (verifying household water pressure, checking the filter and filter housing, and inspecting inlet tubing for kinks or freezing) does not isolate the valve as the problem. A pro can test solenoid resistance with a multimeter and verify that the control board is sending voltage to the valve before you buy a replacement. If the new valve still does not deliver water and both the ice maker and dispenser remain dry, the issue may lie in the filter head or a restricted internal water path that requires disassembly beyond the rear panel.