Samsung Range E-27 Error Code — What It Means
The E-27 code on your Samsung range indicates an oven temperature sensor fault. The main control board is seeing the sensor circuit as open, out of range, or not providing a valid signal. In practical terms, the thermistor that monitors oven temperature has failed, its wiring has been damaged or disconnected, or the control board itself has lost the ability to read the sensor input.
This is a straightforward electrical fault in the sensing circuit. The oven cannot regulate temperature without a working sensor, so the control locks out heating and displays E-27 to prevent runaway temperatures or underheating.
Before You Replace Anything
Many people replace the main control board when they see E-27, but a failed sensor or loose connector is far more likely. Measure the sensor resistance at room temperature with a multimeter (should be about 1080 ohms at 25°C) and inspect the connector before ordering a board.
Common Causes
- Failed oven temperature sensor (~60%) The thermistor inside the oven cavity reads open or far out of range, so the control cannot see a valid temperature signal.
- Loose or corroded sensor connector (~20%) The plug at the back of the range or inside the control area has backed out, corroded, or has a bent pin that breaks the sensor circuit.
- Damaged sensor wiring harness (~10%) The wire between the sensor and the control board is pinched, chewed by rodents, or burned, creating an open circuit.
- Main control board input circuit failure (~10%) The sensor and wiring test good but the control board cannot read the sensor signal, usually due to a failed input component on the board.
Quick Diagnosis
Answer these to narrow it down fast.
Does the error clear when you power-cycle the range at the breaker and stay off for more than a few minutes?
No: The fault is persistent, so the sensor is likely open or the wiring is cut. Proceed with resistance measurement and wiring inspection.
Does the oven sensor measure about 1080 ohms at room temperature (around 25°C)?
No: The sensor is open (infinite resistance) or far out of range. Replace the oven temperature sensor.
After replacing the sensor, does the code return when the oven heats?
No: The repair is complete. The old sensor was the cause.
Step-by-Step Fix
- Kill power at the circuit breaker or unplug the range completely before any work inside the appliance.
- Pull the range forward and remove the back panel or lower rear access cover to expose the oven temperature sensor and its wiring harness.
- Locate the oven sensor (a metal probe extending into the oven cavity) and trace its wire back to the connector at the control area or junction box.
- Inspect the connector and harness for loose pins, corrosion, burn marks, or chewed insulation, and reseat or repair any obvious damage.
- Measure the sensor resistance with a multimeter at room temperature (about 25°C). A good sensor should read around 1080 ohms. An open (infinite) reading or a value above about 2950 ohms confirms a failed sensor.
- Replace the oven temperature sensor if the reading is open or far out of range. Unplug the old sensor, unscrew the mounting bracket, install the new sensor, and reconnect the harness.
- Reassemble the range, restore power, and run a test bake cycle to verify the E-27 code does not return and the oven heats normally.
Parts Often Needed
| Part | Notes |
|---|---|
| Samsung oven temperature sensor (thermistor) | Amazon | Match to your exact model number from the data plate. Typically a probe-style thermistor with a two-pin connector. |
| Sensor wiring harness / lead assembly | Amazon | Only if the harness is cut, burned, or chewed beyond repair. Confirm the connector type and wire gauge for your model. |
When to Call a Pro
Call a service technician if you are uncomfortable working around 240-volt electric range wiring, if the sensor and harness both test good but the code persists (indicating a control-board fault), or if the range is still under warranty. Also call a pro if you find evidence of rodent damage or repeated harness failures, since those cases often require routing inspection and chassis work that goes beyond a simple sensor swap.
Rough cost: DIY runs about $20–50 in parts, 30–60 min. A pro service call runs about $150–300.