Rheem Water Heater Heating Element Replacement — What This Part Does
A Rheem electric water heater heating element is an immersion coil inside the tank that converts electricity into heat to warm the water. Most residential tanks have two elements (upper and lower) controlled by thermostats, and they fire in sequence to heat water from top to bottom. Elements fail from normal wear, mineral scale buildup on the coil, or dry-firing when the tank runs low and the element overheats without water contact. When an element burns out it opens the circuit and stops heating, leaving you with no hot water or only partial recovery. Loose terminal connections or damaged gaskets after prior service can also lead to element failure or leaks at the mounting flange.
Signs It Needs Replacing
- No hot water at all The tank is full but every faucet runs cold, indicating a failed upper element or both elements are open.
- Lukewarm water or runs out quickly You get some hot water but it cools fast, pointing to a failed lower element while the upper still heats the top of the tank.
- Breaker trips repeatedly The circuit breaker trips when the water heater cycles on, often caused by a shorted or grounded element.
- Water pooling below an access panel A small leak at the element gasket appears after prior service or when corrosion damages the seal.
- Burned or discolored wire terminals Opening the access panel reveals scorched wires or melted insulation at the element terminals from a loose connection.
How to Replace It
- Shut off power to the water heater at the circuit breaker and verify zero voltage at the element terminals with a multimeter before touching any wiring.
- Remove the access panel, pull back the insulation, and remove any plastic safety cover to expose the thermostat and element.
- Turn off the cold-water supply valve at the top of the tank and open a hot water faucet anywhere in the house to relieve tank pressure.
- Connect a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank and drain water until the level is below the element you are replacing (drain completely for a lower element).
- Disconnect both wire leads from the element terminals and inspect the terminals and wires for heat damage or corrosion.
- Remove the old element using a 1-1/2 inch socket or element wrench, turning counterclockwise, and pull the element and old gasket out of the tank opening.
- Inspect the gasket seating surface inside the tank opening for scale or corrosion, wipe clean, and install the new gasket onto the new element.
- Thread the new element into the tank opening by hand and snug it down with the socket wrench (do not overtighten), then reconnect both wire leads firmly to the new terminals.
- Close the drain valve, open the cold-water supply, and leave a hot faucet open until a steady stream of water flows (confirming the tank is full and air is purged).
- Check for leaks at the new element flange, replace the insulation and access panel, and restore power at the breaker only after the tank is completely full.
- Monitor the element area for leaks over the next 24 hours and recheck wire terminal tightness after the first heating cycle.
The Part You Need
| Part | Notes |
|---|---|
| Rheem electric water heater heating element (screw-in or flange) | Amazon | Screw-in style is most common on residential Rheem tanks. Find your model and serial number on the label affixed to the side of the tank to verify voltage (usually 240 V) and wattage (typically 3800 W or 4500 W) before ordering. Order upper or lower as needed, or replace both if the tank is older than eight years. |
| Heating element gasket | Amazon | Usually included with a new element. If not, order a separate gasket that matches your element diameter and style (screw-in or flange-bolt). |
Related Error Codes
If this part is failing you may also see one of these codes:
When to Call a Pro
Call a licensed plumber or electrician if you are not comfortable working with 240-volt circuits, if the breaker continues to trip after element replacement, or if you find active leaking from the tank body rather than just the element gasket. If the tank is more than ten years old and you are replacing a second element, a full tank replacement may be more cost-effective than continued part-by-part repair. Any service that requires welding, pressure-vessel modification, or work on gas lines (if you have a gas model) should always be handled by a qualified professional. For gas line, burner, or igniter work, or if you ever smell gas, stop and call a licensed technician.