What does Maytag Washer Shaking and Loud - Causes & Fix mean?

Usually an unlevel washer or unbalanced load. Level the machine, redistribute clothes, and check suspension rods if shaking persists.

How do I fix Maytag Washer Shaking and Loud - Causes & Fix?

Follow the step-by-step diagnosis below. The most likely fix is identified by checking power, sensor resistance, and control-board signals in order — using a multimeter and the part numbers documented in the parts reference table.

Can I keep running the equipment with this fault active?

Generally no. Faults on Appliance units are emitted when a sensor, safety, or control circuit is outside its operating envelope. Running through an active fault risks compressor, heater, or control-board damage. Diagnose and clear the fault first.

What part is most commonly replaced for Maytag Washer Shaking and Loud - Causes & Fix?

The most frequently replaced parts for Maytag Washer Shaking and Loud - Causes & Fix are listed in the Parts Reference section of this guide with OEM part numbers and typical price ranges. Check the table for direct replacements.

Is Maytag Washer Shaking and Loud - Causes & Fix a DIY repair or do I need a technician?

Sensor swaps, fan motor replacements, and condenser cleaning are typical DIY-level repairs. Anything involving refrigerant, gas, or high-voltage (>240V) work requires a licensed technician for both safety and code-compliance reasons.

Maytag Washer Shaking and Loud - Causes & Fix

Maytag Washer Shaking and Loud — What’s Happening

When a Maytag washer shakes violently or makes loud thumping, banging, or rattling noises, it typically means the machine is unbalanced, poorly leveled, overloaded, or sitting on an uneven floor. Maytag points to load balance, leveling, and installation as the first things to check.

If the noise sounds more like scraping, grinding, or metal clanging instead of thumping, the problem may be mechanical rather than just a load issue. In those cases, worn suspension parts, a damaged drive hub, or failed shock absorbers are the usual suspects on older machines.

Jump to Fix

Most Likely Causes

Washer not level or sitting on uneven floor All four feet must contact the floor firmly, and the machine must be level front-to-back and side-to-side or it will walk and shake during spin.
Overloaded tub or single bulky item Too many clothes or one heavy absorbent item like a comforter can throw the load off balance and cause violent shaking.
Worn suspension rods or suspension hardware On top-load models, cracked or stretched suspension rods allow the tub to bounce excessively and bang against the cabinet.
Damaged drive hub or spin basket mounting Broken splines, cracks, or a failed retainer clip in the drive hub or basket interface let the basket wobble and create loud clanking.
Loose items in pockets or pedestal Coins, keys, or objects rattling inside the cabinet, pedestal storage, or wash basket create banging noises that sound like a mechanical fault.
Gearcase output shaft play or worn drive belt Excessive play in the gearcase shaft or a stretched, cracked belt on belt-driven models allows the basket to wobble and vibrate loudly.
Failed shock absorbers or drum bearings On some older Maytag machines, worn shock absorbers or bad drum bearings produce grinding or banging noises during agitation or spin.

How to Diagnose and Fix

Run an empty cycle and then a normal loaded cycle to confirm whether the shaking happens only with laundry or also when empty.
Check that all four feet touch the floor and adjust the leveling legs until the washer is level front-to-back and side-to-side, then tighten the lock nuts.
Open the lid and redistribute the load evenly around the basket, or remove excess laundry if the tub is packed too tightly.
Inspect the pedestal, storage drawer, and cabinet interior for loose objects or anything rattling against the machine during spin.
Manually lift and rock the wash basket to feel for excessive play or listen for grinding, clanking, or scraping noises from the drive or suspension.
On top-load models, remove the cabinet and inspect the suspension rods for cracks, stretched springs, or broken cup hardware.
Check the drive hub and spin basket interface for broken splines, cracks, or loose mounting, and inspect the gearcase output shaft for wobble.
Run any available recalibration or diagnostic cycle if your model supports it, as calibration can resolve some out-of-balance behavior.

Parts You Might Need

Part	Notes
Suspension rod kit	Amazon \| Four rods per machine on most top-load Maytag models, sold individually or as a set.
Drive hub	Amazon \| Couples the spin basket to the gearcase output shaft; inspect for cracks or broken splines.
Drive belt	Amazon \| For belt-driven models; replace if stretched, cracked, or shows flat spots.
Shock absorber set	Amazon \| Used on some older Maytag machines; replace in pairs if worn or leaking.

Seeing a code on the display? These match this problem:

When to Call a Pro

If leveling the washer and correcting the load does not stop the shaking, or if you hear grinding or metal-on-metal clanking, call a tech. Suspension rods and drive hubs are straightforward on most top-load Maytags, but gearcase replacement, shock absorber work, and bearing replacement require cabinet removal and special tools. A tech can isolate the exact mechanical cause without guessing and has access to OEM parts and diagnostic modes.