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KitchenAid Refrigerator E3 Error Code - Causes & Fix

3 min read
⚡ Quick Answer

E3 on a KitchenAid refrigerator means a faulty thermistor. Reset power first. If it returns, check the sensor and wiring.

Difficulty Intermediate (DIY)
Est. time 15-60 min
Tools Multimeter , nut driver, screwdrivers

KitchenAid Refrigerator E3 Error Code — What It Means

On KitchenAid refrigerators, the E3 error code indicates a thermistor fault according to KitchenAid service diagnostic tables. A thermistor is a temperature sensor that tells the control board how cold the refrigerator compartment is. When the control detects an open circuit, short circuit, or out-of-range reading from the thermistor, it throws the E3 code (sometimes displayed as F8 E3 on certain models). The exact meaning and location of the faulty thermistor depend on your specific refrigerator model, so confirm your model number before starting any work.

KitchenAid’s consumer guidance for F8 E3 recommends resetting power and calling for service if the code returns. The fault can be caused by a failed sensor, damaged wiring, or a control board misreading the signal. Most of the time, a power reset will temporarily clear the code, but the underlying problem will bring it back during normal operation if the thermistor circuit is genuinely faulty.

Jump to Fix

Common Causes

Step-by-Step Fix

  1. Verify your model number by checking the label inside the refrigerator or on the back wall, then download the correct KitchenAid tech sheet for that platform to confirm which thermistor the E3 code refers to.
  2. Reset power by unplugging the refrigerator or switching off the circuit breaker for at least one minute, then restore power and watch whether the E3 code returns immediately or after a cooling cycle.
  3. Enter service diagnostics using the button sequence specified in your model’s tech sheet to view real-time thermistor status and confirm which sensor circuit triggered the fault.
  4. Locate and inspect the thermistor identified by the service sheet (often in the fresh-food or freezer compartment air stream), checking for visible damage, frost buildup, or a loose connector at the sensor body.
  5. Test thermistor resistance by unplugging the sensor connector and measuring across its two terminals with a multimeter, then compare the reading to the resistance table in your model’s service documentation.
  6. Check wiring continuity from the thermistor connector back to the control board harness, looking for broken wires, chafing, or corroded connector pins that could cause an intermittent open circuit.
  7. Replace the faulty component by installing a new thermistor if resistance is out of spec or the sensor is shorted, repairing the harness if wiring is damaged, or replacing the control board only if all sensors and wiring pass testing but the code persists.

Parts Often Needed

PartNotes
Refrigerator thermistorAmazon | Match the exact part number from your model’s tech sheet or parts diagram for the sensor flagged in diagnostics.
Wiring harness or connector kitAmazon | Order the specific harness if wires are broken or pins are corroded beyond cleaning.
Main control board or user interface controlAmazon | Replace only after confirming the thermistor circuit is intact and the fault is board-level.

When to Call a Pro

Call a professional if the E3 code returns after a power reset and you are not comfortable working with diagnostic modes, measuring resistance, or tracing wiring inside the refrigerator cabinet. A qualified technician has model-specific service sheets that identify the exact thermistor at fault and can safely access sensors mounted behind air ducts or control panels. Also call if you replace the thermistor and harness but the code persists, since control board diagnosis and replacement require live voltage checks and proper handling of sealed-system components nearby.


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