Frymaster fryer temperature probe
Common first part to price for E1 and E2 probe faults.
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Frymaster is a Welbilt brand and one of the most common names in commercial frying. Their digital controllers like the FootPrint Pro, PC2000, and LOV series display error codes when something goes wrong. This guide covers the E0 through E8 error series you will see on those displays.
Before you call a service technician, many of these codes point to simple problems you can fix yourself. Here is what each code means and how to respond.
Frymaster Error Code Reference Table
| Code | Description | Common Cause |
|---|---|---|
| E0 | Controller fault | Bad board, power surge, corrupted memory |
| E1 | High temperature probe failure | Open probe, broken wire, loose connector |
| E2 | Low temperature probe failure | Shorted probe, moisture in connector, damaged wiring |
| E3 | No temperature rise | Failed heating element, bad contactor, no gas flow |
| E4 | Excessive heat time | Undersized gas supply, low voltage, failing element |
| E5 | Filter system error | Filter paper not seated, pump switch fault, valve position |
| E6 | Gas ignition failure | Bad ignitor, flame sensor issue, gas valve closed |
| E7 | High limit tripped | Overheat condition, failed hi-limit thermostat |
| E8 | Communication error | Loose ribbon cable, bad display board, controller mismatch |
E1 and E2: Temperature Probe Failures
These are the most common error codes on Frymaster digital controllers.
E1 means the controller detects an open circuit in the temperature probe. The probe resistance reads too high or infinite. This usually means a broken wire, a corroded connector, or a failed probe. The controller cannot read the oil temperature at all.
E2 means a short circuit. Probe resistance reads near zero. Moisture in the probe connector, damaged insulation, or a failed probe causes this.
Check the probe connector first. Disconnect it at the controller board and inspect the pins. Look for corrosion, bent pins, or loose wires. If the connector looks clean, measure probe resistance with a multimeter. A room-temperature probe should read between 1,000 and 1,800 ohms depending on the probe type. An open read means the probe is broken. A near-zero read means it is shorted.
Replace the probe if the reading is out of range. Frymaster probes are specific to each controller type. Use the correct part number for your model.
If the probe tests good, the problem is in the wiring harness or the controller board itself. Trace the wiring from the probe to the board. Look for pinch points, heat damage, or rodent damage.
E3 and E4: Heating Errors
E3 means the fryer is not heating at all. The controller calls for heat but the temperature does not rise within a set time.
On gas models, check the gas supply first. Is the gas valve on? Is the manual shutoff open? Then check ignition. Listen for the ignitor clicking. If no spark, the ignitor or ignition module may need replacement. If the gas lights but goes out, check the flame sensor and thermocouple.
On electric models, check the contactors. These are heavy-duty relays that switch power to the heating elements. Listen for a click when the controller calls for heat. No click means the contactor coil may be bad or the controller is not sending the signal. Also check the heating elements themselves for continuity with a multimeter.
E4 means the fryer takes too long to reach temperature. The heat is working but something is slowing it down. Possible causes include low gas pressure, a partially clogged gas valve, worn heating elements, or low voltage to the unit. Start with the fuel supply. If gas pressure is correct, move to the heating components.
E5: Filter System Error
The Frymaster filter system is a common trouble spot. The E5 code means the controller does not see the correct filter system status.
Start with the filter paper. If it is not seated properly, oil cannot flow through. Replace the paper and make sure it sits flat in the filter pan with no gaps around the edges.
Check the filter pump switch. This switch tells the controller the pump is ready. If the switch is stuck or failed, the controller refuses to run the filter cycle. Test the switch for continuity.
Check the drain valve position. The fryer has safety interlocks that prevent the filter from running when the drain valve is open. Make sure the valve is fully closed.
On some models, the pump needs priming. Air in the pump line prevents oil flow. Fill the filter pan with oil and cycle the pump to clear the air.
E6: Gas Ignition Failure
E6 applies only to gas models. The controller tried to light the burner and failed.
The ignition sequence works like this. The controller opens the gas valve and triggers the ignitor. The flame sensor monitors for a flame. If no flame is detected within a few seconds, the controller closes the gas valve and shows E6.
Check the ignitor first. You should see a visible spark at the burner during startup. No spark means a bad ignitor, a failed ignition module, or a broken wire.
If there is a spark but no flame, check the gas valve. Is it getting power from the controller? Use a multimeter to measure voltage at the valve during startup. If voltage is present but no gas flows, replace the valve.
If the flame lights but goes out immediately, the flame sensor is not detecting it. Clean the sensor rod with fine sandpaper. Check the wire from the sensor to the controller. A bad connection here produces a false no-flame condition.
Gas vs. Electric: Know Your System
Gas and electric Frymaster fryers share the same controller and basic error codes. The difference is in what heats the oil.
Gas models use a burner system. Heat comes from burning propane or natural gas. The key components are the gas valve, the ignitor, the flame sensor, and the burner tubes. Gas models need proper airflow for combustion. A blocked flue or dirty burner can produce E3 errors even when the gas supply is fine.
Electric models use heating elements submerged in the oil. The key components are the elements, contactors, and high-limit thermostats. Electric models draw significant amperage, often 50 amps or more per fryer. A loose connection at the terminal block can cause intermittent E3 errors.
Computer Controller Reset and Calibration
Sometimes a controller lockup produces a false error code. Try a hard reset before replacing parts.
To reset a Frymaster digital controller, turn the power off at the breaker or disconnect switch. Wait 60 seconds. Turn the power back on. This clears transient faults and reloads the controller firmware.
If the error returns immediately, the problem is real. If it returns after some time, note what conditions triggered it.
Temperature calibration is another thing to check. If the controller reads the wrong oil temperature, it can produce E3 or E4 codes even when the system is working. Use a thermocouple thermometer to measure the actual oil temperature. Compare it to the controller reading. Frymaster controllers have a calibration offset setting in the programming menu. Adjust it so the displayed temperature matches the actual temperature.
High Limit Reset on Electric Models
Electric Frymaster fryers have a manual reset high-limit thermostat. This safety device shuts down the fryer if the oil temperature exceeds a safe level, usually around 425°F to 450°F.
Look for a small red button on the control panel or inside the door. If the high limit has tripped, press the button until it clicks. The fryer should resume normal operation.
If the high limit trips again quickly, there is a real overheat problem. Check the oil level. Low oil exposes the elements to air, creating hotspots. Check the controller calibration. A mis-calibrated controller can let the oil run too hot.
When to Call a Professional
Some Frymaster repairs require a qualified technician. Call a professional if any of these apply.
The error code returns after you replaced the probe or sensor. The controller board may have a bad input channel or a corrupted firmware. Diagnosing this requires a service manual and specialized test equipment.
You find burned or melted wiring. This indicates a serious electrical problem. Charred wires need replacement by someone who can trace the root cause and inspect all connected components.
The high limit trips repeatedly. A recurring overheat condition can damage the oil, the fryer, and pose a fire risk. Do not just keep resetting it.
You need gas line work. Gas valve replacement, gas pressure adjustment, and gas line repair require a licensed professional. These jobs involve combustible fuel and high-pressure gas.
The controller board needs replacement. Some technicians can swap boards in minutes. The new board needs configuration for your specific model and options. A mismatch here produces more error codes, not fewer.
You lack the tools or confidence to diagnose safely. Commercial fryers use high voltage and high current. A mistake can damage the equipment or cause injury. When in doubt, call a service company that works on Frymaster equipment.